The summer season was prolific for our wines across the international press. Gilda and Maria da Graça caught the attention of the most respectable natural wine journalists worlwide. Eric Asimov from the New York Times (USA) listed Maria da Graça 2015 among 20 wines from all over the World in his article “20 Wines for Under $20: Weeknight Pleasures for Relaxed Evenings” – see here why Asimov thinks Maria da Graça is a fascinating red! And, last July, in his wine blog, Jamie Goode wrote about “Two lovely naturally made reds from Portuguese winemaker Tiago Teles” where he classifies his experience of bumping into our wine as some sort of serendipity! This is a scoop!
So far 2017 has been a relaxed year in the terrain in that the lack of diseases has prevented unnecessary stresses in the vineyard. Dry weather across spring and the summer produced healthy grapes. However, the reduced availability of water impacted vineyards differently. Whilst Vinha da Pena in Montejunto (COZs project), planted in calcareous slopes, was not hurt by the lack of water and dry winds, the harvest of grape Vital was done earlier than usual, between the 22nd and 23rd of August. As expected, colder clay soils in Bairrada held quite. Gilda, a blend of Castelão and Tinta Barroca, was harvested on the 1st of September and Maria da Graça, a blend of Alfrocheiro and Bical, on the 19th September. In Vinho Verde/Arcos de Valdevez region, we observed a similar climate trend leading to healthy grapes. In this instance, Loureiro grape was harvested earlier than usual on the 6th and 11th of September. In Vila Nova (COZs project), plants are healthy and Baga was harvest on the 15th of September and white grapes on the 29th September! This year production is very fine and elegant.
Please book again this year the 4th November to pay us a visit at Passevite, an independent atelier/gallery animated by the artists Paulo Robalo and Mathieu Fodore and the designers Rui Lourenço and Daniel do Nascimento, where we will be presenting our new wines, this year together with António Marques-da-Cruz from Quinta da Serradinha, Rodrigo Filipe from Humus, Pedro Marques from Vale da Capucha, Silvia and Nadir from Os Goliardos and COZs de Cozinheiros. The event “Passevinho no Passevite” presents wines that interpret a landscape from a knowledge, but depart, essentially, from the acceptance of that same natural environment. Information on this event will soon be available.
Spring was humid but also warmer to start with, then humid and colder until mid June. It was a difficult year in the terrain, which lead to an important decrease in production in vineyards from regions like Bairrada. Summer days were warmer than usual, reaching at times temperatures above 30ºC. However, less production per plant and water availability in the soil ensured no delays in maturation. The decrease of natural acidity in grapes occurred earlier than usual and still with lower alcohol degree. Red grapes were harvested between the 9th and the 13th September. In Vinho Verde/Arcos de Valdevez region, we observed a similar climate trend. However, here grape maturation was slower and we have therefore waited for the rain that finally arrived around mid September. The grapes were harvested between the 19th and the 21st September. In Cozinheiros, pruning after 3 years of abandon plus a difficult spring season lead to no grapes this year. But plants are alive and responding!
We will be attending “Vigni di Vignaioli 2016” this year again, the oldest and one of the most reputed Italian wine fairs dedicated to conceptual wines. We will share the stand with António Marques-da-Cruz from Quinta da Serradinha. In a recent wine tasting in Italy named “Il Portugalo e i suoi vigneron: la nascita di un nuovo paradigma”, presented by “Os Goliardos” during “Terra Madre Salone del Gusto” (Slow Food), RAIZ white 2015 and MARIA DA GRAÇA 2015 were listed besides Quinta da Serradinha, Humus, Quinta da Boavista, Casal Figueira and António Madeira.
Please book the 11th November to pay us a visit at Passvite, an independent atelier/gallery animated by the artists Paulo Robalo and Mathieu Fodore and the designers Rui Lourenço and Daniel do Nascimento, where we will be presenting our new wines together with António Marques-da-Cruz. Information on this event will soon be available.
The book “Wines with Terroir” (Vinhos com Terroir) is now available also in English via our website. Our book is a reflection on wine, a true story about a man, his ideas and values, inspired by his passion for wine. A search for understanding wines today. You can download it here
The internet site www.tiago-teles.pt (PT and EN) has been updated with 2015 wines, including new web pages for “RAIZ wines”, “Exchanges” and “Reflections”. The content has been also updated across the entire site. Finally, we have reinforced our presence on social media networks by joining Instagram (tiagoteles_vinhosportugal).
The book “Wines with Terroir” (Vinhos com Terroir) is now available in French via our website (and very soon in English!). Our new book is a reflection on wine, a true story about a man, his ideas and values, inspired by his passion for wine. A search for understanding wines today.
Vinho ao Vivo is an independent event, organized in partnership with the wine cellar “Os Goliardos” and the restaurant “À Margem”. It results from the rigorous selection of independent producers who share a vision of producing wines with no artificial products, elaborated in a traditional and authentic way, combining the search for identity, talent and ethics. We will be presenting our 2015 GILDA, MARIA DA GRAÇA, RAIZ red, RAIZ white and COZINHEIROS wines! Do not miss this unique opportunity: http://www.vinhoaovivo.com/.
We have been to France in early June to meet talented people who operate their vineyards in honesty and harmony with local culture, tradition and history. A permanent search for new skills and inspiration. Our trip included visits to Domaine Chamonard and Chateau Cambon (Beajoulais), Matthieu & Sylvanie Bouchet and Sylvain Dittiere (Saumur), Domaine de la Chevalerie (Bourgueil), Domaine Baudry (Chinon), Julien Pineau (Touraine), François Chidaine (Montlouis-Vouvray), Vincent Carême (Vouvray), Richard Leroy, Mosse, Pithon Paillé and Juchepie (Anjou), Pascal Cotat and Vincent Gaudry (Sancerre), Gonon and Eric Texier (Rhone). What an adventure!
We would like to thank all the people who supported us actively over 2015. People who believe and invested in our honest and popular wines, which seem to have been taken right out from a movie set from the 40s and 50s. MARIA DA GRAÇA 2013, MARIA DA GRAÇA 2014 and GILDA 2013 have sold out. There are still a few charming bottles left of GILDA 2012 before bottling the wines harvested in 2015, later this summer. Many thanks to our supporters from Chicago-USA, Montreal-Canada, Belgium, Spain, Italy, UK, New York-USA, Holland, Japan, France, Lisbon-Portugal and Algarve-Portugal. We are soon travelling to Barcelona and Prowein in Germany to keep the pace.
The blend used in GILDA changed twice in 2015; the enigmatic Merlot grapes from S. Mateus stayed but are now accompanied by Trincadeira da Bairrada (Castelão Francês) and Tinta Barroca from Valdazar. Grapes from different places/altitudes/soils searching for the real expressiveness of Bairrada, delivering a soft and very elegant wine. MARIA DA GRAÇA 2015 keeps its irreverence. Alfrocheiro and Alicante Bouchet underwent joint fermentation with a white grape named Bical, which resulted in a two times fresh and fluid nectar. Bairrada, one land, two different ways to express itself!
It is about time to talk about new wines from the Vinho Verde region. Both RAIZ red wine, a blend of Vinhão and Padeiro de Basto, and RAIZ white wine, a blend of Loureiro, Trajadura and Padernã, underwent natural fermentation in concret tanks but with a twist. RAIZ red is currently ageing in inox while RAIZ white ages in cement. These wines differ from the region standard. Balanced acidity and low content in sulphur. RAIZ red is expressive while RAIZ white is serious. But the a energy can be found in both.
Lovely António Marques from Quinta da Serradinha and I harvested red and white grapes in the mythic Quinta dos Cozinheiros, 8 km away from the Atlantic Ocean. Old Baga vines, no treatments, two co-fermented blends in cement mixed with nearly 30% of white grapes. The result is out of this world, delivering two extraordinary reds filled with depth and nature. Our enthusiasm may have biased our appreciation. However, we can certainly say that Cozinheiros were made with love and good will.
Marketplaces are being worked and our presence starts to be durable in Chicago-USA, Montreal-Canada, Belgium, Spain and UK. New York-USA, Holland and Japan are the encouraging arrivals! Lisbon and Algarve are going through a very interesting and growing period. It is a year to consolidate thoughts on existing markets and get new ones in USA and Europe. Wild “Maria da Graça 2014” certified Bairrada DOC will make its appearance in October!
The weather in Bairrada was dry but not warm. Work in the vineyards did go healthy. Rain did miss during the summer and by the end of August few grapes were getting ripe by dehydration but were really fit. We did harvest as usual based on tasting. GILDA’s Merlot, Trincadeira da Bairrada and Tinta Barroca were harvested on the 4th and 7th September and Maria da Graça based Alfrocheiro on the 9th and 10th September. A small number of white grape Bical was picked on the 10th September… and by the 3rd of October, with Antonio from Quinta da Serradinha, we did harvest red and white grapes in Quinta dos Cozinheiros…
We are making wine in Vinho Verde, in the exuberant/transition zone of Arcos de Valdevez, in an old cellar renovated this year in the property of my family. We did it “old school”, nearly manually, using cement tanks of 15 hl for fermentation and ageing. The weather in Vinho Verde was balanced and resilient rain on the 23rd of August did help vineyards to regain forces. Later heavy rain on the 15th and 16th September surely helped the “reds”. The white based Loureiro, Trajadura and Padernã was harvested on 12th September and the red based Vinhão and Padeiro de Basto were harvested on the 29th September…
Goliardos are truly unique. “Vinho ao Vivo 2015” (www.vinhoaovivo.com, Lisbon, July 2015) was an extraordinary event and an amazing concentration of authentic European wine producers. Congratulations dear Goliardos! And from an event in celebration of genuine wine we are soon travelling to Italy to present our wines in one of the most important events dedicated to genuine wines in the world (www.vinidivignaioli.com, Fornovo di Taro, November 2015). Travel humbly, plentiful things to learn and discover.
Goliardos are alive and kicking. And we love them. In partnership with “Esplanada À Margem” they promote a high concentration of authentic European wine producers. Wine meets music along the Tagus riverbanks: a major event in celebration of genuine wine! On July 3 and 4, let’s drink and become human. In partnership with wine producer Campolargo, we will present direct and pure wine, without filters or adjustments.
More info here: Esplanada À Margem
Malena is rising a small family. Participating in Vinum Nature 2015 in Barcelona was an honour. And sharing three days with Malena and producers Alberto (Nanclares), António (Serradinha) and João (Terras de Tavares) was just an amazing human experience. We never thought of selling wine in Spain but here we are, conquering Cataluña and further regions… Gracias Malena!
If you are looking for real wine culture then Montreal is the place to be. reZin is a group of special young persons with their own values and truly dedicated to genuine wine. They are authentic, beautiful and charming people. They organize tastings in the garden…they put you riding a bicycle to visit clients…they drink true wine…they make life beautiful. “Ils sont même beaux quand ils sont troublés…. ». And… Montreal adore Maria da Graça and Gilda!
What would my life be without Craig? The generosity, the talent and the professionalism of Craig make you think that life starts when you travel outside Portugal. Chicago is a must. It was not only our first experience in USA but as well an extraordinary human experience…meeting Robert “Big Truck”, Mark “Only Bubbles”, Adrienne “Fat Crazy Rice”, etc., a genuine experience. Again… Chicago admire Maria da Graça and Gilda!
It is a tradition. The tasting organized by our distributor in Algarve did take place on the 22nd and 23th March in Carvoeiro. Great event with great producers and great audience. Definitively Algarve is a natural market for Gilda and Maria da Graça. Please have a look on Bruce comments in journal Algarve Resident: Algarve Resident 2015-03-27 Wine Talk.
We had to be present in a Wine Fair in 2015. We did decide for 2015 Prowein in Germany. We were afraid of being misaligned during three days (from the 15th to the 17th March). Prowein size is frightening and probably becoming “old fashion” but finally things did go quite well (homework did help). We did encounter people feeling the wine as we do. Everything makes sense when people understands the natural interpretation from a place. João points the way… next year again?
Celebrating the historical influences that have shaped modern Portuguese cuisine, 28°-50° Maddox Street (a great venue with a fabulous reputation in London – www.2850.co.uk) did open its kitchen for one evening only to masterchef Matteo Ferrantino and award winning sommelier António Lopes. GILDA 2013 has been selected for the main-course and paired with Caldeirada of Black Cod.
Full article here – TPL 2850 Mayfair Review.
Travelling is learning. The landscape in DO Ribeira Sacra in Galiza/Spain is so primitive that we cry. How can such landscape still exist? Ribeira Sacra terroir is time, is human perseverance, symbolised by “castros celtas” and very old vineyards. We did visit Roberto in Chantada/Belesar, Pedro Guimaro in Amandi and Dominio de Bibei. We end up in DO Monterrei visiting the metaphor of the terroir, José Luis Mateo.
”It came as no surprise to me that Teles was influenced by his latest travels to Beaujolais and Burgundy. His 2013 red wines, Gilda and Maria da Graça, are as fragrant and feminine as EXPLICIT RED is muscular and masculine. (…), grape varieties are less important than origin and, without question both reds, as he puts it, “transmit exactly the limestone and cool profile of Bairrada.” You can almost feel the chill of this coastal region’s northwest Atlantic winds and the damp clay beneath its chalky soils.”
Um encontro com Pequenos Produtores numa das lojas mais conceituadas de Lisboa. Excelente ambiente, experiência fantástica. Saber mais: Encontro com os pequenos Produtores 31 de Agosto
“40 produtores europeus independentes que dão a descobrir os seus vinhos goliárdicos de vários países da Europa. Vinhos com tipicidade, feitos com ousadia, talento e ética. O Vinho ao Vivo ocorre ao ar livre, à beira do Tejo, na esplanada À Margem, em Belém. Um encontro único em Portugal em prol da diversidade, para provar uma seleção excecional e ímpar de vinhos de carácter.”
” Where he describes wine tasting as “an unceasing search for the balance between ‘us’ and life experience,” it was perhaps inevitable that Teles’ next step was himself to produce wine. Together with his father, a co-investor, the self-taught wine writer/would-be producer embarked on a voyage of discovery which involved touring vineyards for several years and culminated in Gilda, a red wine. Gilda is named after the wooden boat depicted on the label which Teles’ grandfather built and named after his wife.”
” Mas, mais do que isso, no seu projecto o Tiago quis introduzir uma vertente de história familiar. Não só se lançou nesta aventura com o Pai, como quer que o projecto reflicta a perseverança pelos valores humanos de liberdade e amizade que lhe foram transmitidos. Traduzindo-se isso, neste caso, numa relação ética com o vinho, com os que o fazem, com o seu historial, com os seus valores, e num vinho para beber com amigos e celebrar a amizade.”
Tiago Teles foi co-fundador do Site de vinhos “Os5às8”, tendo desenvolvido a crítica de vinhos entre 2002 e 2006. No âmbito desse projecto assumiu a co-autoria de quatro edições de um guia anual de vinhos. Foi co-fundador do Site “NovaCrítica-vinho” entre 2007 e 2009 e assumiu, igualmente, a co-autoria do guia Portal Portugal, Guia de Vinhos Portugueses e Estrangeiros 2008 e 2009. Em 2009, acaba por se afastar da crítica de vinhos, por razões pessoais e profissionais, e em 2012 lança-se de “corpo e alma”, juntamente com seu pai, no sonho de sempre: fazer vinho, num contacto estreito com a natureza, nunca esquecendo a identidade do local.
© 2017 Tiago Teles